Пасха в Сеуле

Пасха в Сеуле 23.06.2013
Предпасхальная суббота была людной. Одинаковые, веселые, пьяные корейцы метались вдоль дороги и через нее. Пасха началась горячим солнечным утром и люди видимо быстро сгорели, бешеный ветер развеял пепел: было очень светло и очень пусто. Казалось никто не знает о празднике.

Двадцать минут одинокого метро - на выходе уже встречались наши. Церковь окружена кварталом низеньких домиков, старым очень обжитым и каким-то интимным. Как водится, в Сеуле Храм (да и весь райончик) расположился на небольшом пригорке, на высокой насыпи с площадкой. Ее тесно окружили забором, а вокруг здания втиснулась корейская природа, вишневые деревья и цветы. Внизу было тихо, у кованной калитки уже гулко слышались разговоры. Отмечать пасху собралась немногочисленная, но сплоченная диаспора, в очередях за яйцами и едой русская речь. Пару раз обнаруживались немцы, несколько странных православных поляков, и пару корейцев. Мимо прошуршал белым, свободным, хламидистым одеянием негр. Повсюду звучали церковные речитативы, треск разбиваемых друг о друга яиц.



Внутри храма было свежо, были тени, сквозь витражи пробивался свет и казался сиянием. Пахло свечами. Без перерыва пел сборный хор: украинские девочки в национальных цветах и прихожане. Пение смешивалось с шепотом, переплеталось в высокий и шелестящий звук, он взлетал к куполу "тучного" храма и заполнял его, началась легкая дрожь. Здесь не в том дело, веришь ты во что-то (например в «Христосвоскрес») или нет - свойство таких мест - окружать каждого кто пришел атмосферой спокойствия и одновременно легкой тревоги - это ощущение проникает и пронизывает, делает частью действа, а бог тут уже не при чем.

Официальная часть закончилась, очередь от священника с яйцами переместилась к столам с корейской едой и надолго к столам приросла. Разговелись все: и те, кто постился и служители культа, пили вино как воду, воду не пили вовсе - ее осталось больше всего, вино кончилось даже несколько рано. Люди расслабились, разговоры перешли на политику - так бывает среди оторванных от родины, лучше всех знающих людей-эмигрантов. Кто-то вещал, кто-то слушал, кто-то бегал курить и подливать. По всей площадке странными траекториями ходит американец, нес в руке бутылку Русского Стандарта, наливал всем, кого мог поймать и выпивал с ними за здоровье воскресшего. Пасха превратилась в повод для встречи, редкий и удачный - едва ли эти люди встречаются чаще чем два-три раза в год.

Как-то вдруг почти незаметно выступили корейский мальчики с корейскими танцами с элементами корейских единоборств. Глава корейской православной церкви, русскоговорящий священник, скрытый обильной бородой и сединой, смеялся и ассистировал им. Более навязчиво отработали представители африканской православной церкви, те самые чернокожие (коих оказалось больше одного замеченного ранее). Вооруженные мощными барабанами и мелкой перкуссией они очень задорно стучали, весело плясали, напрочь заглушая разговоры.

К пяти часам кому-то стало "пора" и за кем-то потянулись все, разошлись кто-куда. Храм и площадка опустели, Христос-таки воистину воскрес и слава богу. Пасха кончилась.

Юрий Лытко, Сеул

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